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[[File:Sine wave amplitude.svg|right|thumb|Wave characteristics.]]
In [[fluid dynamics]], the '''Ursell number''' indicates the [[nonlinearity]] of long [[ocean surface wave|surface gravity waves]] on a [[fluid]] layer. This [[dimensionless]] parameter is named after [[Fritz Ursell]], who discussed its significance in 1953.<ref>{{cite journal | first=F | last=Ursell | title=The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves | journal=Proceedings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society | pages=685–694 | issue=4 | volume=49 | doi=10.1017/S0305004100028887 | year=1953|bibcode = 1953PCPS...49..685U }}</ref>


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The Ursell number is derived from the [[Stokes wave|Stokes wave expansion]], a [[perturbation theory|perturbation series]] for nonlinear [[periodic function|periodic]] waves, in the long-wave [[limit (mathematics)|limit]] of [[waves and shallow water|shallow water]] — when the [[wavelength]] is much larger than the water depth. Then the Ursell number ''U'' is defined as:
 
:<math>U\, =\, \frac{H}{h} \left(\frac{\lambda}{h}\right)^2\, =\, \frac{H\, \lambda^2}{h^3},</math>
 
which is, apart from a constant 3 / (32 π<sup>2</sup>), the ratio of the [[amplitude]]s of the second-order to the first-order term in the [[free surface]] elevation.<ref>Dingemans (1997), Part 1, §2.8.1, pp. 182–184.</ref>
The used parameters are:
* ''H'' : the [[wave height]], ''i.e.'' the difference between the elevations of the wave [[crest (physics)|crest]] and [[trough (physics)|trough]],
* ''h'' : the mean water depth, and
* ''λ'' : the wavelength, which has to be large compared to the depth, ''λ'' ≫ ''h''.
So the Ursell parameter ''U'' is the relative wave height ''H'' / ''h'' times the relative wavelength ''λ'' / ''h'' squared.
 
For long waves (''λ'' ≫ ''h'') with small Ursell number, ''U'' ≪ 32 π<sup>2</sup> / 3 ≈ 100,<ref>This factor is due to the neglected constant in the amplitude ratio of the second-order to first-order terms in the Stokes' wave expansion. See Dingemans (1997), p. 179 & 182.</ref> linear wave theory is applicable. Otherwise (and most often) a non-linear theory for fairly long waves (''λ''&nbsp;>&nbsp;7&nbsp;''h'')<ref>Dingemans (1997), Part 2, pp. 473 & 516.</ref> — like the [[Korteweg–de Vries equation]] or [[Boussinesq approximation (water waves)|Boussinesq equations]] — has to be used.
The parameter, with different normalisation, was already introduced by [[George Gabriel Stokes]] in his historical paper on surface gravity waves of 1847.<ref name=Stokes1847>{{cite journal | first= G. G. | last=Stokes | year= 1847 | title= On the theory of oscillatory waves | journal= Transactions of the Cambridge Philosophical Society | volume= 8 | pages= 441–455 }}<br>Reprinted in: {{cite book | first= G. G. | last=Stokes | year= 1880 | title= Mathematical and Physical Papers, Volume I | publisher= Cambridge University Press | pages= 197–229 | url= http://www.archive.org/details/mathphyspapers01stokrich }}</ref>
 
== Notes ==
{{reflist}}
 
== References ==
* {{cite book | title=Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms | first=M. W. | last=Dingemans | year=1997 | series=Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering | volume=13 | publisher=World Scientific | location=Singapore | isbn=981-02-0427-2 }} In 2 parts, 967 pages.
* {{cite book | title=Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics | first=I. A. | last=Svendsen | year=2006 | series=Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering | volume=24 | publisher=World Scientific | location=Singapore | isbn=981-256-142-0 }} 722 pages.
 
{{NonDimFluMech}}
 
[[Category:Dimensionless numbers of fluid mechanics]]
[[Category:Fluid dynamics]]
[[Category:Water waves]]

Latest revision as of 11:23, 8 June 2013

Wave characteristics.

In fluid dynamics, the Ursell number indicates the nonlinearity of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer. This dimensionless parameter is named after Fritz Ursell, who discussed its significance in 1953.[1]

The Ursell number is derived from the Stokes wave expansion, a perturbation series for nonlinear periodic waves, in the long-wave limit of shallow water — when the wavelength is much larger than the water depth. Then the Ursell number U is defined as:

which is, apart from a constant 3 / (32 π2), the ratio of the amplitudes of the second-order to the first-order term in the free surface elevation.[2] The used parameters are:

  • H : the wave height, i.e. the difference between the elevations of the wave crest and trough,
  • h : the mean water depth, and
  • λ : the wavelength, which has to be large compared to the depth, λh.

So the Ursell parameter U is the relative wave height H / h times the relative wavelength λ / h squared.

For long waves (λh) with small Ursell number, U ≪ 32 π2 / 3 ≈ 100,[3] linear wave theory is applicable. Otherwise (and most often) a non-linear theory for fairly long waves (λ > 7 h)[4] — like the Korteweg–de Vries equation or Boussinesq equations — has to be used. The parameter, with different normalisation, was already introduced by George Gabriel Stokes in his historical paper on surface gravity waves of 1847.[5]

Notes

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References

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    My blog: http://www.primaboinca.com/view_profile.php?userid=5889534 In 2 parts, 967 pages.
  • 20 year-old Real Estate Agent Rusty from Saint-Paul, has hobbies and interests which includes monopoly, property developers in singapore and poker. Will soon undertake a contiki trip that may include going to the Lower Valley of the Omo.

    My blog: http://www.primaboinca.com/view_profile.php?userid=5889534 722 pages.

Template:NonDimFluMech

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  2. Dingemans (1997), Part 1, §2.8.1, pp. 182–184.
  3. This factor is due to the neglected constant in the amplitude ratio of the second-order to first-order terms in the Stokes' wave expansion. See Dingemans (1997), p. 179 & 182.
  4. Dingemans (1997), Part 2, pp. 473 & 516.
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